NES Controller Assembly Guide

Please take extra care with the fasteners-- the heads and threads are very small. Using machine screws is NOT the same as the fasteners used when screwing together plastic parts. They require very little force and should have minimum resistance when turning. If you're careful, you'll do just fine!
Ensure parts are fully seated and held in place when fastening. I recommend against using the fastener to pull the parts together. This is especially important when fastening the front and rear housings
When assembling, do not force the fastener! If you feel resistance, re-evaluate your fastener length or back out, clean, and try again.

0.0 Before you begin

0.1 Materials needed

      • Donor NES controller
      • Boxy Pixel Housing Kit w/included M4x6mm fasteners
      • Boxy Pixel Button kit (Optional) or plastic buttons
      • Replacement Silicone Set (Optional)
      • #0 Phillips screwdriver
      • Tweezers (Optional)
      • Small bowl or similar (Optional)
      • Masking tape, twist tie, or similar to secure cable
      • Something to support the controller above your work surface

0.2 Testing

Plug you donor controller into your console and verify that all buttons and the D-Pad function properly

1.0 Disassemble the donor controller

1.1 Secure the cable 

Coil the cable loosely around your hand and secure it with tape or a twist tie. This is not strictly necessary, but it prevents frustration from the loose cable knocking small parts off the table or dragging the controller to the floor.

1.2 Position the controller

Support the donor controller face down a little bit above the work surface. The Boxy Pixel MSC-1039 Universal Assembly Fixture is perfect for this, but you can use all sorts of common objects such as a pair of CD jewel cases or two books of similar thickness. Just be sure the buttons are free to hang in their resting position when the rear housing is removed.

1.3 Remove the rear housing

With the #0 Phillips screwdriver, remove the six (6) screws holding the case halves together. Turn counterclockwise. Note the self-tapping screws used for the plastic assembly feel “grabby” as you back them out. If your screwdriver is magnetic, you can use it to carefully lift the screws out of their pockets. A pair of sharp tipped tweezers also works well. Alternatively, hold the case halves together with thumb and fingers and tip the screws into your hand or a suitable container. The screws will not be reused.

1.4 Remove the PC board 

Note the position of the PC board relative to the alignment pin and screw bosses of the factory front housing. Also note the routing of the cable through the three strain relief pins and exit hole. Free the cable from the strain relief pins. It is a snug fit.

You can use the screwdriver to pry between the housing edge and the cable to pop it free. Do not use the board as a handle to yank the cable free.

Lift the board straight up and set it aside.

1.5 Remove the conductive pads and buttons

Note how the pads fit over their pins and support features.

Lift the pads straight up and set them aside. A small bowl will prevent them from getting lost. Note the Select/Start pad has integral buttons.

Note how the “wings” of the A and B buttons align with “cut outs” of the surrounding features. The factory buttons are identical, as are the Boxy Pixel NES-1003 Buttons included in the NES-1006 Button Kit. Remove the D-Pad and A and B buttons. You can push the buttons up from below with the screwdriver and grab them with your fingers or tweezers. Alternatively lift the housing and tip the buttons into your hand or the bowl.

1.6 Disassembly is complete

Set the factory front housing aside.

2.0 Assemble your new controller

2.1 Test fit

To verify the quality of your product, fit the NES-1000 front housing together with the NES-1001 rear housing prior to assembly. They should fit neatly together with no force and should not rock once seated. Separate the housings and set the rear aside.

2.2 Position the Boxy Pixel NES-1000 front housing

Use the same fixture used for disassembly to support the housing above the work surface. Note: Due to the rigidity of aluminum and the differences between machining and injection molding, the inside of the Boxy Pixel housing does not appear identical to the factory housing, however, all critical features and dimensions have been maintained.

2.3 Install buttons

Installation is the same for factory or Boxy Pixel buttons. With fingers or tweezers drop the A and B buttons (identical) and D-Pad into their locating features. Be sure to align the “wings” of the A and B buttons with the cutouts in the housing. The D-Pad can install in any of the four possible orientations. The buttons should drop in easily and hang freely in their resting positions.

2.4 Install silicone conductive pads

Installation is the same for factory and aftermarket pads.

The Boxy Pixel NES-1000 front housing uses only one alignment pin for the D-Pad silicone. It can be installed in either orientation.

Install the A/B pad over its pins in either orientation.

The Select/Start pad is asymmetric. Install it with its hole over its locating pin.

Tap gently around all three pads to ensure they are positively seated on their pins and locating features.

2.5 Install the PC board and cable

Factory PCB - Place the board over the locating pin and engage it with the corner locating pockets. The corners should sit flat in the corner pockets and should not be able to rock significantly. If it requires force to seat, or rocks, remove it and recheck the seating of the conductive pads. Check that the screw holes in the board align perfectly with the threaded holes in the housing. Note: if installing an aftermarket board, it may be necessary to enlarge its screw holes slightly with a small drill.

Route the cable through the strain relief pins and exit hole as in the factory housing. Gently push it into engagement with finger or the screwdriver. Recheck the board alignment as it is easy to dislodge it while seating the cable.

8BitDo NES Mod Kit - These boards require minor trimming as seen below to fit our housing. A hobby knife with a #11 blade works very well.

Be careful not to damage the accessory board on the button side. Assemble the charging port per the instructions provided and close the controller as above. We have tested these boards with the 8BitDo Retro Receiver to a distance of over 30 feet.

2.6 Install the rear housing

Orient the housing with its half of the cable hole aligned with the half in the front housing. Use finger and thumb of one hand to hold the cable in the exit hole as you place the rear housing onto the front housing. It should fit neatly into place with no force and should not rock. If it does not, recheck the alignment of the silicone pads and board and the seating of the cable in the strain relief pins and exit hole.

Place the five (5) included screws into the pockets in the rear housing using magnetic screwdriver, tweezers, or fingers. Turn the screws just until they seat. IMPORTANT: The feel of a properly engaged screw in machined metal is very different from the “grabby” feel of a self-tapping screw in plastic. They should turn freely with almost no force until the head seats against the housing. If a screw feels like it is getting tighter as it turns in stop. Back the screw all the way out and carefully restart it paying attention to aligning it straight with the threaded hole. When all screws are seated tighten them an additional 1/8 – 1/4 turn. Do not over tighten.

3.0 Test your new controller

Operate all the buttons and the D-Pad. They should feel crisp and return freely to their resting positions. If they do not, place the controller back on your fixture, disassemble, and check the seating of the silicone pads, board, and cable. If you still have troubles, feel free to contact us.

Remove the tape or twist ties from the cable and unwind it.

Plug your new controller into your console and enjoy!